Berkey Water Filters

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Log splitting 2.0

I received an email from a blog reader, Andrew, that I wanted to share with everyone.

Andrew writes:

I came across a smart idea for splitting wood better that had been posted to youtube. It involves making a girdle for the logs you are splitting with a tire. This keeps the wood on the block during chopping so you don’t have to pick up and reset the pieces after each chop. It also serves as a bumper to protect the chopping block from wearing down. This seems like it will be helpful to your readers, I know it will be helpful to me. I fast forwarded to the relevant part.

Episode 11 – Growing Mushrooms indoors and outdoors and more!

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For today’s podcast I covered a few different topics from vitamin C mega doses to more beekeeping tips and more. I hope you enjoy the podcast.

I switched to the iPhone for recording the podcast, let me know if the audio quality is finally up to par.

Oyster Mushrooms

Mushroom Kit in a bin

Mushroom Kit in a bin

Sponsor of the day

Show Outline

A tutorial on Charring

Tuxdad from the TSP forum put together this AWESOME article on “charring”, admittedly something I know nothing at all about (not surprising). Seems like a good bushcraft skill to tackle. Add it to the list. Thanks again Tuxdad!!

Hope it helps in some way with your firecrafting..

First off, I don’t just make charcloth, I make char material, be it just about any plant source, from punkwood, to thistle down, to sphagmum moss in a few cases.. This is just so you all know it’s not all about using cloth as a source for your material, but whatever it is, it MUST be a natural material..

Material

Okay, now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s get down to charring…

The things needed for this are as follows, and shown in the pic :

Charring Tools

A nice big pair of pliers(large enough to pick up you can with, and hold it if needed as you move it to a spot to cool)..
A good heavy pair of fireplace or welding gloves(you may wanna wear another set of gloves underneath these, its entirely up to you)
A can(either with a friction fitted lid or screw on lid..) for holding your material..
And last but not least, your charring material( you can cut it into squares if you like, for me it seems to work better for the process).. This can be an old cotton t-shirt, or old jeans, or cotton pads, or wood, or whatever other natural material you may have on hand.. In my case it was a couple of old t-shirts..

Also you’ll be needing a fire, in my case it’s our woodstove..

Wood Stove

(Note: If you plan on doing this indoors as I am, and have, BE SURE TO MAKE A CLEAR PATH TO THE OUTSIDE.. For 2 reasons, one my SO, as I’m sure a few of he other ladies may also, hates the smell of the charring material, and 2 it makes things safer if you plan them out ahead, such as you having a vent hole in your can possibly.. You DEFINITELY wanna make your plug for it BEFORE you do ANY charring.. We’ll get to that in a bit..)

Now, you want to fill you can with your charring material.. You want it NOT completely full, as you need room for the charring process, and gases to escape.. You also want to make sure with your friction fits(cans) that it’s on good, but not too tight as it will get pushed off from the gas build up(as mine did in this case), or if you prefer you can poke a vent hole(nothing large, just enough to allow the gases to escape..).. I usually use a brad or some other small tack for this purpose, but an awl(the one on your multitool for example) will be just fine…

Now that you’ve got you can filled(but not too full) with charring material, and the lid one snugly(remember not too tight), or if you’ve chosen to use a vent hole you have a plug made for it ahead of time, you’re ready for charring..

As you can see in the next couple of pics that I’ve got a nice bed of coals(and maybe a log on the fire as well), to get things going for the charring(cooking) process… You may also notice as the gases escape that they are QUITE flammable from the first pic.. In the pic of the second can, you can see the gases heating and escaping through the vent hole.. Now all you do in my case is close the door to your stove, or if you’re outdoors, just let it go until the gases burn off(by way of lighting the gases, or they’ll ignite on their own).. Once the gases have burned off, you need to get your can off the fire (and plugged if you have a vent hole) ASAP.. Over cooking your charr will cause it to be brittle, and not much of any good.. Now you just let it cool, away from the fire.. Depending on the time of you year, this may take 10 mins or up to an hour.. The best advice is when the can is cool to the touch it’s now safe to inspect your “charrings”..  Again you will need to plug the vent hole if you have one in your can.. This will stop the “cooking” process, and starve it of air.. This is VERY important ! If you’re not patient, and you open the can too soon, you may get the “woof” effect, which will be accompanied by a flash of flame in some cases and the result being just a can of ash and some singed or burned body parts..  NOT A GOOD THING ! (No I didn’t experience this first hand but was able to witness this, it was rather interesting to see a man of some 300 pounds move about 45′ in literally about 3 or 4 steps..)

You may wind up with some of your material not completely charred, which is alright.. You can either save it for the next batch of charring or remove the finished pieces, and place the unfinished charr back in the can and back into your fire.. Your charr should be soft and easy to tear apart, and there should be little soot on your fingers from it, but if there is, this is fine as the last char is to try and catch a spark with your flint and steel.. I guess in the colonial times(or to a mountain man, or whom ever) it wouldn’t have mattered much whether the charrings were clean or not as long as the charring were able to catch a spark, and that’s pretty much I see it as well since that’s the most important part of it all..


testing each batch of charrings..


I also charred a bit of punkwood as well for this, just to show it able to be done..



Also in a couple of pics, you may have noticed that I used another can as a cooling spot for my hot can, this can work great as you have an added heatsink(for cooling your can), and a stable platform for carrying your outdoors to cool, with less worry of dropping it…(just thought I’d throw that out there).

Questions? Leave them in the Comments

Tuxdad

Episode 10 – New Years Goals and Mycorrhizal Fungi

mycorrhiza

Yeah it’s a pretty strange title for the Podcast… but that is the topic for today’s show.

Here is your outline:

Sponsor of the day:

Food Security Knowledge Pack

My New Years Resolutions

  1. Stop interrupting people in conversations, be a more mindful and aware of my conversations and surroundings.
  2. Cliché Goal Alert!! – Lose some weight!!
  3. Stop being such a consumer and embrace a more frugal lifestyle

2011 Project short list.

  1. Design/budget/plan my aquaponics system
  2. Bees!
  3. Baby!
  4. Mushroom Production
  5. Triple the size of the garden
  6. Maximize the assets already on my land (Orchard)
  7. Chicken Tractor

Mycorrhizal Fungi

“experiments conducted on a site owned by the Washington State Department of Transportation in Bellingham. Diesel oil had contaminated the site, which the mycoremediation team inoculated with strains of oyster mycelia that Stamets had collected from old-growth forests in the Pacific Northwest. Two other bioremediation teams, one using bacteria, the other using engineered bacteria, were also given sections of the contaminated soil to test.
Lo and behold. After four weeks, oyster mushrooms up to 12 inches in diameter had formed on the mycoremediated soil. After eight weeks, 95 percent of the hydrocarbons had broken down, and the soil was deemed nontoxic and suitable for use in WSDOT highway landscaping.

By contrast, neither of the bioremediated sites showed significant changes. “It’s only hearsay,” says Bill Hyde, Stamets’ patent attorney, “but the bacterial remediation folks were crying because the [mycoremediation] worked so fast.

And that, says Stamets, was just the beginning of the end of the story. As the mushrooms rotted away, “fungus gnats” moved in to eat the spores. The gnats attracted other insects, which attracted birds, which brought in seeds.”

Using the incredible cattail

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First off, I apologize for not getting the contest online last night. Some of you might have learned from the facebook page that I am basically working non-stop at my job right now. It happens. I’ll do what I can to get those up this week, but if worst comes to worst I’ll post the contest this weekend and extend the deadline.

Today’s submission comes to me again from Backwood’s Home magazine via John Daleske who has already sent in so many great articles to Save Our Skills and I would just like to thank him again for all of his contributions.

The Cattail is a wondrous plant.  Keven details many of the uses in a great article.  He writes:

“I can think of no other North American plant that is more useful than the cattail. This wonderful plant is a virtual gold mine of survival utility. It is a four-season food, medicinal, and utility plant. What other plant can boast eight food products, three medicinals, and at least 12 other functional uses?”

Read remainder of aritcle…

Building a Solar Still

solar_still

by Jason Akers from http://www.theselfsufficientgardener.com. The Self Sufficient Gardener is a blog and podcast about growing your own food and living off the land.

For some reason, when I was a kid, I made it my business to know as many bushcraft skills as I could possible learn.  One of the first I picked up was actually from a young-adult fiction book called Deathwatch.  In the book, the protagonist is being pursued through the desert and must rely on his survival knowledge to evade and finally dispatch his pursuer.  One of the things that allowed the book’s hero to do this was a device called a solar still from which he “made” fresh water.  The book did an inadequate job of describing the still so I was forced to beg and plead my uncle (a member of the ANG) out of a copy of the military’s survival manual.

As I held those pages in my hand reading about how to build a solar still I knew immediately that I had learned one of the most valuable survival skills possible.

A solar still is nothing as magical as perhaps stories of my childhood makes it seem.  Simply put, it is a hole in the ground with a cup at the center and bottom of the hole.  Over the hole plastic is draped and a small rock is placed in the center.  The plastic is secured at the edges. Newer versions actually have a drinking tube from the cup to the user.  Who has a drinking tube at a time like this?

The solar still works through properties of evaporation and condensation.  The water in the air and in the ground evaporates and forms a mist which floats upwards.  The plastic traps the mist and the water collects on the plastic until it becomes heavy enough to drip off the center and into the cup.  This process can be amplified by placing moist plant material in the bottom of the hole as green plants transpire and release water through pores.  If I understand correctly you can even place saltwater in the hole and the still will desalinate it as it evaporates.

It must be said that there are disadvantages to this system.  For one, it takes a lot of energy to build one.  For another, the water you gather is only in amounts that will barely keep you alive in most cases.  In addition, it must stay put for some time (overnight is best) to allow it to work, so its hard to travel.

However, in dry climates or in areas where freshwater is hard to find the solar still provides a means to sustainable fresh drinking water.

Mushroom Collecting 101: The foolproof four

Chanterelle
Note: Some wild mushrooms are poisonous, and they may resemble edible species. Eating them may make you sick or kill you. It is your responsibility to identify any wild food with 100% certainty before you eat it.

I’m very much interested in harvesting wild mushrooms, however mushrooms are scary business! Eating the wrong mushroom can make you severely ill or in some cases kill you! In fact there is even a mushroom called “The Angel of Death“.

So how can you get started into mushrooming without worrying about killing yourself?

Well first off all I would suggest locating your local mushrooming club if there is one around. Your good friend Google should know where they are.

The best place to start with mushrooming is without a doubt “The Foolproof four”. These 4 mushrooms are named because they are very easy to identify and they do not have many poisonous look alikes.

The foolproof four are:

Puffball Mushroom

Puffball Mushroom

Chicken of the woods

Chicken of the woods

morel

Morel

Chanterelle

Chanterelle

Warnings

Mushrooming Skills I want to learn

  • Learning your local areas and knowing where to look
  • Learning to identify tree types. Knowing which type of trees are growing is one of the most important aspects of determining which mushrooms you are likely to find
  • Spore Prints: The color and pattern of the mushroom spores are the safest way to properly identify a mushroom.

I’ll be joining and attending local mushroom events and will of course keep the blog up to date with my progress.

Fire starter 4.0

FileCamp fire

By No Prob Rob:

Everyone has got their favorite fire starting method. Over the years I have had various fire starter kits. I think I have finally refined it down to something lightweight, simple, weatherproof, and some added functionality thrown in as well.

I start with the supplies needed for the build. I decided it wasn’t much trouble to go ahead and make a dozen to give as Christmas gifts as well.

Here are the materials required:

  • geocache container 9/16″ diameter X 2.75″ long ($1.79)
  • 1/8 ” X 2″ ferrocerium rod ($1.35)
  • JB Weld
  • Cotton Balls
  • Petrolatum Jelly
  • Fish hook
  • 30 lb test braided nylon fishing line
  • hacksaw blade

Read the Rest of this Article

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